Dermatology 2026

Background: Objective evidence for anti-aging cosmetics is limited, as claims rely largely on subjective assessments. Facial aging is a complex, multifactorial process involving extracellular matrix degradation, oxidative stress, pigment changes, and reduced cell turnover, influenced by intrinsic, hormonal, and environmental factors like photoexposure. This complexity highlights the need for objective, reproducible biological outcomes. Multifunctional formulations with synergistic actives may provide clinically relevant benefits when supported by strong biological rationale.

Materials and Methods: To evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing niacinamide, tocopherol, hyaluronic acid, a densifying peptide (N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, on biological markers of skin aging, an approach preclinical was applied. Preclinical studies assessed mechanisms related to dermal matrix integrity and cellular turnover, including type I collagen synthesis, Ki‑67 expression (cell proliferation marker), and hyaluronic acid levels by ELISA, as well as pathways involved in pigmentation and oxidative stress, through melanin synthesis and mitochondrial superoxide production using the fluorescent probe MitoSOX™ Red.

Results: Treatment increased type I collagen by 88% (p < 0.001) and Ki‑67 by 18% (p < 0.01), supporting enhanced extracellular matrix remodeling and cellular turnover, as well as hyaluronic acid levels by 19% (p < 0.001). In parallel, melanin synthesis was reduced by 64% (p < 0.01) and mitochondrial superoxide production by 28% (p < 0.01), indicating modulation of pigmentation and oxidative stress pathways.

Conclusions: The formulation demonstrated measurable biological benefits, moving beyond subjective cosmetic claims. The observed improvements in collagen synthesis and cellular turnover, together with enhanced hydration and modulation of pigmentation and oxidative stress pathways, these findings support the formulation as a scientifically substantiated, for facial skin aging in menopaused and mature skin women.

Andreia Feital da Costa Pereira is a pharmaceutical and dermocosmetic professional based in São Paulo, Brazil, with more than 20 years of experience in national and multinational healthcare industries. She is associated with Aché Pharmaceutical Laboratories S.A., one of Brazil's leading pharmaceutical companies. Throughout her career, she has been involved in innovation and product development and has contributed to several scientific publications and patents in dermatology and cosmetic science, including research on atopic dermatitis, rosacea, skin protection, and anti-aging formulations.